When it comes to dream destinations, Liguria never disappoints. Among these, San Fruttuoso di Camogli deserves a special mention.
According to legend, the origins of this hamlet date back to the 8th century AD. At that time, the bay was chosen by the Bishop of Tarragona as a refuge for the relics of the Spanish martyr San Fruttuoso, which he had managed to carry away by sea while fleeing the Arab invasion of Spain.
This marked the founding of what is today the Abbey of San Fruttuoso di Camogli. After the Spaniards, this corner of paradise became a retreat for Benedictine monks, and later captured the hearts of Andrea Doria and his family, who helped develop the hamlet. Several members of the Doria family are still buried here. The entire hamlet remained the property of the Doria family for many centuries, until 1983, when it was donated to the FAI (Italian National Trust), which manages it to this day.
Time seems to have stood still in this cove of the Portofino Promontory. In addition to the Abbey, it is home to a church, a cloister, a watchtower, and a museum — plus the Doria family tombs — which you can visit through the FAI. You will also find a few small restaurants serving local specialities and a lovely beach.
To reach San Fruttuoso di Camogli, you have only two options: by sea or on foot along the trails of the Portofino Park.
By sea, you can take one of the ferries connecting San Fruttuoso with Genoa, Recco and Camogli. Visit the Golfo Paradiso website for timetables and further information.
For those who prefer to arrive on foot and enjoy a trekking experience with stunning views and breathtaking panoramas, there are several trails within the Portofino Park to choose from.
From San Rocco to San Fruttuoso di Camogli
Two of the main trails to San Fruttuoso start from San Rocco, a small village just inland from Camogli, reachable both on foot and by public or private transport.
The trail from Camogli begins from a small landlocked side street off Viale Cuneo, opposite the Carabinieri barracks: it is Via San Bartolomeo, the mule track that climbs inland skirting, in the first stretch, the Gentile stream.
JOURNEY TIME: 30 to 60 minutes at a regular pace
Alternatively, you can reach San Rocco by public or private transport:
- By bus: AMT buses run to San Rocco from Camogli, Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure and Zoagli. Check timetables here.
- By car: there is a public car park a few minutes' walk from San Rocco, which is free on weekdays and paid on holidays (note that spaces are limited during peak season).
As mentioned, two trails depart from the churchyard of San Rocco: one easier and suitable for everyone, and one better suited to experienced hikers.
For the easier route, take the stepped path to the left of the church and continue into the holm oak forest: in just over an hour you will reach Gaixella. Proceed towards Pietre Strette, from where you can descend to your final destination.
The second trail begins to the right of San Rocco church. The mule track runs along the western flank of Monte di Portofino, passing through Poggio, Mortola and Semaforo Nuovo. Along the way, surrounded by typical Mediterranean vegetation that drops steeply to the sea, you can admire sweeping views of the Golfo Paradiso and make a detour to reach Punta Chiappa.
Past the steps down to Punta Chiappa lies the hamlet of Mortola, from which the path continues to Poggio. After the last house, you cross a small bridge and the terrain becomes increasingly steep and rugged, with narrow ridges and jagged rock towers.
You then arrive at Fornelli, now known as Batterie after the World War II bunkers built here.
The trail descends into a rocky amphitheatre overlooking the stretch of sea between Punta Chiappa and Punta Budego. This is the most challenging section: chains are fixed in several places to assist your passage. Here lies the famous Passo del Bacio, beyond which an incredible view of the Golden Cove opens up. Once you reach the top, you can finally enjoy the descent down to San Fruttuoso di Camogli.
